Ye Olde Mitre Pub

Ye Olde Mitre is a pub in the Holborn district of London, hidden at the end of an alley that extends from a gated laneway near the Chancery Lane tube stop. It’s closed on weekends.

Ye Olde Mitre entrance
Ye Olde Mitre entrance

One of the oldest in London, this pub dates to the time of Queen Elizabeth I. “Built in 1546 and extended in 1782” says the website. Rather than a single room, the pub is more like a warren of small cozy rooms, with two levels and a courtyard.

Ye Olde Mitre
Ye Olde Mitre

The other customers mostly seemed to be suited regulars on their lunch breaks.

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Arriving in London

We are staying in the Southwark/Bankside area of London, which is on the southern side of the Thames, about a ten-minute walk east of Waterloo Station. It’s a former industrial area that’s become trendy over the past few decades, but many signs of its grittier past remain, including numerous arched brick railway overpasses.

Southwark Railway Arch
Southwark Railway Arch

We are staying at the CitizenM hotel, the London offshoot of an Amsterdam-based chain.

The CitizenM on Southwark Street
The CitizenM on Southwark Street

The hotel is very hip and modern with hi-tech rooms where all the lights, television, blinds, heat, wake-up alarms and other things are controlled via tablet app. There is a distinct lack of stuffiness, with efficient friendly service and minibar fridges stocked with free (non-alcoholic) beverages and snacks that are replenished each day.

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Around Reykjavik

Our Reykjavik layover was short, so we only had a few hours on our last evening to explore the downtown area.

This was the colourful corner of Klapparstigur, Týsgata and Njálsgata near our hotel.

A colourful corner
A colourful corner

As in most cold-weather countries, Icelanders consume a lot of coffee. We visited Reykjavik Roasters, one of the city’s most serious coffee places, where I enjoyed a very nice and very hot $6 Americano.

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Around the Golden Circle

Since we only had two full days in Iceland on our layover, we made the most of it by booking a six-hour bus tour of the Golden Circle with Reykjavik Excursions. A bus driver and friendly guide took us efficiently around the loop to see the most popular natural sites within a few hours of Reykjavik.

The first stop on the tour was Gullfoss. It’s hard to express the vast scale of these falls in photos, but the size of the tiny people walking on the path on the left helps.

Gullfoss
Gullfoss

We started with high, distant vantages and then walked all the way around until we were being soaked by the spray. Gullfoss is the “golden waterfall” and it lived up to that name and made good on our guidebook’s promise of frequent rainbows.

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Layover in Iceland

On our way to London, we took advantage of the Icelandair stopover option, which lets you extend a short changeover at the Reykjavik airport into a stay of up to 7 days for no extra airfare. We took two full days, spending the first day in Reykjavik, then taking a Golden Circle bus tour on the second day.

Iceland Air
Iceland Air — No-charge layovers!

Our overnight flight landed very early, so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to explore drizzly Reykjavik in a haze of jetlag. Impossible to miss almost anywhere in the city is Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland. It took 41 years to build, with construction starting in 1945 and ending in 1986.

Hallgrímskirkja
Hallgrímskirkja

It cost 900 ISK (about $9) to go up the tower in an elevator, where we were rewarded with photogenic views of otherwise low-rise Reykjavik.

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NYC October 2015

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NYC October 2015
We stayed at Hotel East Houston (since renamed the Edge Hotel as of 2017) for the first time. This is the view of the hotel from the north side of Houston St. It’s very close to lots of trendy neighbourhoods, but still maintains a bit of grit through its proximity to the Lower East Side, Houston Street and the Bowery.

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NYC May 2014

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NYC May 2014
The view up Elizabeth Street from our hotel room. We stayed at the Nolitan Hotel for the second trip in a row. It’s in Nolita (aka “North of Little Italy) and is pretty much on the boundary between SoHo, Chinatown, Little Italy and the Lower East Side. It’s a great central point with good access to multiple subway lines.

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NYC May 2013

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NYC May 2013
The Leadbelly on Orchard Street, a bar snacks and mixed drink joint on a somewhat deserted stretch of Chinatown. We enjoyed some excellent oysters at ludicrously cheap buck-a-shuck prices, which worked out well since the rest of their menu was on the expensive side.

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A Weekend in Boston

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Boston and Cambridge 2012
Brattle Hall in Harvard Square, currently housing a theatre and an unusual cafe called the Algiers, where we ate falafels and had beer after we checked in to our hotel.

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NYC May 2012

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NYC 2012
The line outside the Shake Shack in Madison Square Park. We had several some time to kill before we could pick up our apartment key, so we spent it here.

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NYC May 2011

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NYC 2011
We stayed at the Standard Hotel in the Meatpacking District. It opened in 2009 and is famous for its crazy architecture and painfully exclusive rooftop bar (which we studiously avoided). Staying here was a unique experience, but next time I think we’ll aim for something a bit more low key.

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NYC October 2010

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NYC 2010
We stayed at the New Yorker Hotel again. Sure, the location is crazy busy just off Times Square near Penn Station, but it’s ridiculously convenient to get everywhere. And I like the old building, constructed in the 1929 in an Art Deco style. It was closed from 1970 through to the mid 90s when it was finally refurbished and reopened.

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