In January and February of 2020, we spent three weeks in Greece, split between Athens and Crete. It was a wonderful trip, and we liked the country more than we had expected. We left eager to return to Greece in warmer weather, and to explore more of the islands. The pandemic had other plans, of course, and within weeks of landing back in Toronto we found ourselves in the first of many lockdowns. For a long while it seemed we might never travel frivolously again.
Throughout the pandemic I continued to read about travel, and in particular, books by famous past visitors to Greece — Henry Miller’s psychedelic meander just before the war, Lawrence Durrell‘s deep affection for Corfu and postwar administration work in Rhodes, and Paddy Leigh Fermor‘s special operation heroics in Crete. They were all writing about Greece, but also about another time in history when the world was abruptly turned upside down for millions of people, through no fault of their own.
With all that in mind, our return to Athens feels a little bit surreal. We are suddenly back on the same streets, walking past the same historic monuments, and in a way it feels like we never actually left. The continuity is reassuring, but it also feels different, partly because so much has happened in the last few years, and partly because Athens in late May is very different from Athens in January.
Though the temperatures are only in the low-to-mid 20s, the sun is already hot. Very hot. Walking the hills is harder. We understand now why the Greek government regulates the price of bottled water, because it’s a necessity here, despite all the wasted plastic.
And the crowds take some getting used to. Hordes of daypacked couples just like us jostle with enormous guided groups that descend on tavernas and cafes without warning. We are surrounded by American and British and Australian accents, as well as people speaking French, German, Spanish, Italian. Everyone from everywhere is here.
Personal convenience aside, after these very lean years for the tourism industry it’s nice to see the streets crowded with people enjoying themselves, and the patios filled to the brim with customers. The Greek economy is “rocketing“. The food is still good, and the service still friendly, even if slightly more rushed than in the off-season. Though Athens winters are mild by Canadian standards, everything is brighter and greener and more colourful in the late spring.
The cats still roam every nook and cranny, enjoying an enviable sort of freedom that comes with a food dish and a water bowl for when times get really tough and the tourists won’t share their calamari.
